Robert McGrath

American / Chefs / Restaurants / Robert McGrath — No Comments
12
Nov 10

My Fork was Roaring for Some Zing

The entrance to Roaring Fork Scottsdale Az

The Attractive Entrance to Roaring Fork, Scottsdale, AZ

Now here is the thing, I’m a curious person, I like juxtaposition and competition but I am an optimist by nature. So I was intrigued to visit Roaring Fork in town, (I’ve been to the Austin location) a week after our outstanding visit to Renegade Canteen. Both are arguably the creations of Robert McGrath but one has him and one does not. Would the latter beat out the former, or would Robert’s latter beat out his former?

The Flash Did not Do the Interior Justice

My amateur photography sure doesn’t help but even in person the first clue was the chicken roasting on spits in the entryway’s river-rock fire place. That roasting chicken was not performing any pavlovian tricks, olfactory or otherwise. It just did not jump out at you and say eat me, the way a good food marketing gimic should. Feeling sorry for the chickens, especially from a devoted carnivore is not a good start. 

Spit Roasted Chicken

Ok The Chicken is Cooking

The second clue is that we arrived at 7:00 on a Friday night and though the restaurant was doing business, we secured a nice table  for four without a reservation. A happy event for us, but maybe not such a good indicator for the house. Most of the business was at the bar, where they were having a great time.  We sat and fate handed us a terrific and patient server, Melissa, who handled the myriad questions about the product from Mrs. P Chef and her good friend J. I call them the Yenta Mafia and they can go on (and on, and on; in a good way dear) asking about gluten, organics, farm vs. wild, foreign vs. domestic, etc. We learn alot about the ingredients and a lot about our servers professionalism and patience. Melissa was aces. Finally, an order was placed, with a few extra sides for the table.

The Butter "Spread" was Attractive

Not a Colorful, Flamboyant or Remarkable Dish

The Noted Green Chili

Green Chili Mac n Cheese, Green Chili Macaroni & Cheese

Green Chili Mac & Cheese

Interior of Mac & Cheese

Under the Crust Something to Write Home About

The Green Beans were not a hit with our group, despite the vegetarian vote. The Green Chili, that people who know rave about at Renegade Canteen (but that I missed at my last visit), was at best decent. The Green Chili Mac & Cheese (which I did not have at Renegade Canteen) was great, just the right spice level (from jalapenos with spinach for extra color) to cut the cheesy smoothness. Everyone tucked in, despite the health hazards of cheese, spice and gluten.

After a brief pause, where Melissa was funny and attentive, our entrées arrived.

Big Ass Burger

The Big A$$ ($$ because the kids might be reading) Burger was a heavy weight and a contender. I really enjoyed it, and did a lot of damage, but I did not dig way  down and finish it off, the way I might have at Ray’s Hell Burger, Shake Shack, Indulge Burger, Five Guys or The Grind. All I can say is that it is Big A$$ and I was full, but that usually won’t hold me back. 

Big Ass, and Good It Is

Next came the let down of the other entrées.

I'm Not Sure if Any of the 3 Meats Were Well Cooked

Shrimp Entrée @ Roaring Fork

Competent Fish Tacos

Maybe its me, but none of those dishes above got any sort of a “WOW” they way they might have 10 years ago. I titled this post “Roaring for some Zing” because that is, to me, what was missing from the not inexpensive meal. Granted my camera skills can improve, and nothing was staged but I shoot everything with the same digital camera and same hurried staging. In my mind the underperformering dishes were either missing skill/talent or caring. They were long on campfire looks, but had none of the flair. If I didn’t know Robert was still well and truly alive and working across town, I’d say it was his ghost cooking the ghosts of his dishes. If we are headed back anytime soon, I’m sticking with the Big A$$ Burger and the Green Chili Mac & Cheese.

P Chef

 Roaring Fork on Urbanspoon

American / Chefs / Restaurants / Robert McGrath — 2 Comments
6
Nov 10

Not Feeling Petty; but Just Like a Renegade at Renegade Cafe

robert mcgrath, renegade cafe,

The Upscale but Comfortable Entry at Renegade Cafe

A few months ago we blogged about James Beard Award winning Chef Robert MgGrath’s upcoming new project and wished him well.
Last night Mrs. P Chef and I went Renegade and had a great time. Before we proceed, full disclosure is in order. Robert McGrath is friends with Teaching Chef, our chief culinary instructor at SmartKitchen.com, and Robert has given us some advice about Smart Kitchen, our Online Culinary School based in Scottsdale, Az.
Wine Seller

The Classy and Understated Wine "Seller"

So don’t wine (bad pun intended), if I am a bit biased in favor of Robert. Mrs P Chef won’t be. And we did not warn the staff in advance of our visit, seek or get any special treatment, or receive any complimentary food/drinks. And we still had a great time.
The place is vibrant. From the moment you enter, you hear a jubilant crowd and the festive feel carries over into the menu, especially at happy hour where even the good food and drinks are discounted.
Prickly Pear Mojito, Prickly Pear Cactus Mojito

A Signature Prickly Pear Cactus Mojito

We sat down and perused the menu. There was a lot to take in and decide upon. As opposed to places that try too hard, where every entree looks great at first glance, until you re-read the description and find a few off putting ingredients in every dish; Renegade Cafe’s menu had the opposite problem (benefit really) of everything sounding spot on. The burden of choosing from among a plethora of inspired dishes, is a burden I can handle. The Lesser of Two Evils game is not for me. Choosing between, the pan seared hanger steak with a cauliflower saffron demi-glaze or the dill baked salmon in a curried puff pastry is a “lose, lose” decision; the kind I dread. We were cutting it close for happy hour pricing and made two snap decisions:
Lobster Tail Tacos and Phil’s Ribs @ the Happy hour price of $10.
Phil's Ribs, Renegade Canteen Ribs

Phil Can't have these Ribs Back. They are Long Gone!

Remember the disclosure, and who was likely to be most biased? My bride, Mrs. P Chef, who has been dragged along to far more obscure BBQ places than the average blushing beauty, exclaimed around a mouthful of rib meat, “OMG, they’re the best I’ve ever had.” And then within 30 seconds, she said it again, as if I hadn’t been paying attention or something. “They’re the best I’ve ever had.”
Hearing it twice, and with such enthusiasm, was both good and bad news. Good news because the bite I was about to take would likely be pretty fabulous. Bad because, generous prince of a husband that I am, I could see my portion of the noteworthy rib appetizer slipping away. From my few bites, and our detailed conversation about the ribs, I know they are baby back ribs and they present almost like a more mature, more American, slightly drier (in a good way) version of Chinese spare ribs. It was a thoroughly delectable and “grown up” rib, not slathered in KC Masterpiece sauce, or sweet like a kids’ meal. Mrs. P Chef downed them like they’d disappear with Happy Hour at 07:00.
Lobster Taco,

The Closest We're Getting to Maine this Month

I consoled myself with the fact that I could come back and perhaps get some ribs next time, and there was the bulk of the lobster tacos, which were very good, but a bit over charred for my taste. It is likely one of those flukes of the busy kitchen. I am confident, I could order them again and get less charring and enjoy them immensely.

Spinach Salad with coddled egg, coddled egg

The Coddled Egg Sold it for Me

Then came a palate cleanser, in the form of a sylvan spinach salad with bacon and honey dressing, scallions, candied pecans and the visually appealing coddled egg. It is another item to return for. Then came the entrees.
Duck Quesadilla

Duck Quesadilla

 
Mrs. P Chef had ordered the duck Fajitas with caramelized onions mustard demi glaze, arugula and pomegranate, but she’d gone out too fast on the ribs, and didn’t do much damage to the quesadilla.
Ox Tail Soup

Ordering Like my Dad, and Happy about it.

I had made the improbable choice of ordering the Oxtail Soup. Right? Soup? Ox Tails? Who was I, my father?  Well as he can tell you, my Dad knows a thing or two. That oxtail got gnawed down to the barest umami tasting bits, and every drop of scintillating sauce, jus, etc. was put to good nutritional use. Nothing went back. Mrs. P Chef, who is not an ox tail gal, even gave it the home makers’ seal of approval.
Sweet Potato Cake with Sweet Potato Frosting

It was Sweet....& Potatoey,

And marvel of marvels, we both had room for dessert. Mrs. P Chef made what must have been a health and nutrition inspired choice, (I know it wasn’t a palette building curiosity order) and selected a sweet potato cake with sweet potato frosting. Needless to say, it was a tour de force of cooking; making a silk purse out of a sow’s ear. But for me it did not hit the spot, that certain high end dessert spot. Even so, it’s magic what they did, approximating cake with sweet potatoes. It was a very good cake as far as sweet potato cakes go, but how far do they really go? Especially, when facing off with a taste bud comparable of a candy cap mushroom bread pudding. It was a little like pitting Woody (Allen or Harrelson or both) against Arnold in a “dessert-athon” grudge match. Sweet Woody never stood a chance.
Candy Cap Mushroom Bread Pudding

The picture doesn't do it Justice

Pallete building curiosity is what first sold me on it but the dessert will bring me back. “Candy Cap Mushroom Bread Pudding” is a forager’s dream pastry, and could have been literally to die for if the foragers had picked the wrong fungi. But as of this writing, they didn’t and the only thing to die for was the bread pudding, with a vanilla melted ice cream sauce. All in all a very successful visit to what looks to be a very successful star on the Scottsdale dining stage.
P Chef

Renegade Canteen on Urbanspoon